Bollywood has always been known for setting major fashion and beauty trends, and makeup is no exception. Over the years, the makeup industry in Bollywood has undergone a significant transformation. From the dramatic looks of yesteryears to the understated natural beauty looks of today, the change is quite noticeable. But what caused this shift, and how do the famous makeup artists of the industry view it? Let’s dive into the changing makeup trends in Bollywood and hear from the experts.
The Early Days: Heavy Makeup and Over-the-Top Glamour
In the early days of Bollywood, makeup was all about bold and heavy looks. Actresses were often seen with thick kajal, bright red lipstick, and pancake-like foundation. This was largely because films were shot in black and white, and the camera and lighting technology were not as advanced as today. The heavy makeup helped actresses stand out on the screen, as subtler makeup wouldn’t have been visible.
Actresses of that era, like Sharmila Tagore and Mumtaz, often sported winged eyeliner, bright lip colors, and thick lashes. Tight sarees and salwar-kameez were paired with high-glam looks, making actresses appear larger than life.
Makeup artist Ojas Rajani recalls, “Back then, there was no concept of natural makeup. Everyone wanted a glamorous look, no matter what role they were playing.”
The 60s and 70s: Bold Eyes and Dramatic Lashes
By the 60s and 70s, Bollywood actresses continued to embrace bold looks, especially around the eyes. Heavy kajal, thick eyeliner, and voluminous lashes became the signature style. Actresses like Hema Malini, Zeenat Aman, and Rekha were often seen with dramatic eye makeup, which accentuated their beauty on screen. The hairstyles also added to the overall glamour, with bouffants and heavily styled hair making waves.
However, during this time, makeup was still considered a “man’s job.” Female makeup artists were not allowed to work in the industry due to rules set by the Cine-Costume Makeup Artists and Hair Dresses Association (CCMAA) in 1955. It wasn’t until 2014 that the Supreme Court overturned this rule, allowing female makeup artists to work in films.
The Shift to Lighter Makeup in the 80s and 90s
As Bollywood entered the 80s and 90s, the shift towards a more refined look began. While the glamour factor was still high, the makeup was less cakey and more sophisticated. Actresses like Madhuri Dixit and Sridevi were the faces of this era, often seen with glowing skin, soft blush, and more defined but not overly dramatic makeup.
During this time, colored eyeliners and lipsticks became popular. The introduction of better lighting and camera technology allowed makeup artists to experiment with lighter products. Still, the makeup was far from what we would call “natural” today.
The trend of making actresses appear glamorous in every scene continued, but makeup techniques were becoming more refined. Mickey Contractor, one of Bollywood’s top makeup artists, remembers this shift: “It was about enhancing features without overdoing it. But at the same time, the industry was not ready to let go of its obsession with heavy glam.”
The New Millennium: Embracing Natural Beauty
As Bollywood entered the 2000s, there was a noticeable change in how actresses were presented on screen. The industry started moving away from the overly made-up looks of the past and began embracing more natural beauty. Actresses like Aishwarya Rai, Kareena Kapoor, and Priyanka Chopra started appearing with minimalistic makeup looks, focusing on glowing skin and natural beauty.
According to makeup artist Ojas Rajani, “The idea of a no-makeup look started gaining popularity around this time. Actresses wanted to look fresh and effortless, both on and off the screen.” This led to the rise of products like BB creams, tinted moisturizers, and soft, natural shades for eyes and lips.
The makeup trend also started mirroring international standards, with Bollywood actresses appearing at global events sporting minimalistic yet elegant looks. The focus was now on healthy, radiant skin rather than piling on layers of foundation and makeup.
The No-Makeup Look: Less is More
In recent years, the “no-makeup look” has taken Bollywood by storm. This look, which gives the illusion of barely-there makeup, actually requires a lot of effort. Actresses like Alia Bhatt, Deepika Padukone, and Anushka Sharma are often seen rocking this trend, both on and off screen.
For movies, even when the actresses appear to be wearing no makeup, they are still wearing light foundation, blush, highlighter, and a soft lip tint. The makeup is designed to make their skin glow naturally without looking overdone.
Famous makeup artist Mickey Contractor says, “The no-makeup look is not about skipping makeup altogether. It’s about using the right products to enhance natural beauty without making it look obvious.”
The trend of natural eyebrows, soft blush, and nude lips has become the norm, not just in films but in real life as well. Airport looks, gym outings, and even casual social media appearances now feature actresses in their most natural form, with a little help from makeup, of course.
Makeup Artists Today: Experts Behind the Scenes
The shift towards more natural makeup has also led to a new wave of makeup artists specializing in subtle, elegant looks. Today, it’s not just about one person doing the makeup for an actress. There’s a team of professionals, including hairstylists, eye makeup specialists, and skin prep experts, working together to create that flawless, natural look.
Ojas Rajani, who has worked with stars like Aishwarya Rai and Katrina Kaif, explains the process behind a natural look for the camera: “Even for a no-makeup look, a lot of effort goes into prepping the skin. We use serums, moisturizers, and light foundations to give the skin a natural glow. It’s all about layering the products in a way that looks effortless.”
Mickey Contractor adds, “Trends change every few months, but the goal remains the same: to make the actress look good without overdoing it. Less is more has become the mantra, and that’s not going away anytime soon.”
The Impact of Social Media and Paparazzi Culture
Another factor influencing makeup trends in Bollywood is the rise of social media and constant paparazzi attention. Actresses are no longer just getting ready for films and red-carpet events. Now, they have to be camera-ready at all times, whether they are at the airport, stepping out for coffee, or even going to the gym.
The emphasis on looking flawless yet natural has increased the demand for minimalistic, everyday makeup. BB creams, tinted lip balms, and soft eyeliner are often all that actresses wear in their day-to-day lives, while still looking polished and presentable.
Post-Covid Makeup Trends: Natural, Hygienic, and Unique
The Covid-19 pandemic has also influenced makeup trends. With masks becoming a part of everyday life, makeup shifted from heavy foundation and lipstick to focusing on the eyes and skin. The emphasis was on skin health and minimal products, as people started prioritizing hygiene and comfort over glamour.
Makeup artist Ojas Rajani explains, “Post-Covid, actresses and even regular people prefer makeup that looks good but feels light. Skin prep has become more important than ever. The focus is on hydration, serums, and products that give a glow without weighing down the skin.”
Actresses are now also more involved in designing their makeup looks, ensuring they align with their personal brand and style.
